The easiest way for me to reach Greece was through Istanbul, that famed city in Türkiye, bursting with color, sights, and history. I had a choice between a three-hour layover or almost a full day. Rather than the short, comfortable stopover, I opted for the longer one to take advantage of Turkish Airlines’ TourIstanbul program, which offers free tours for travelers with layovers in Istanbul. The tour would include transportation and a meal—so why not?
After landing in Istanbul, I still had a few hours before my tour began. Despite the signs touting “Best airport in the world” award for 2024, I couldn’t see any signs to actually help me figure out where to go. I likely walked about two miles trying to figure out if I needed to pass through passport control or wait in a lounge. It was a confusing experience, made even more challenging by jet lag. Eventually, after passing through passport control, I located the TourIstanbul desk, found a comfortable waiting spot, stored my luggage, and joined the group for the tour. A bit more guidance for arriving passengers would go a long way here.
Several airlines have programs to encourage tourism. IcelandAir and TAP Air Portugal, for example, allow you to extend your layover up to a week in some cases at no extra charge, as well as hotel and transport deals. TourIstanbul goes a step further and offers tours during your layover for free. Depending on the length of your layover, you can select one of their tours that works for your timing, or you can book a free night in an airport hotel. I jumped at the chance to see Istanbul – I already knew that I wanted to go to Türkiye, so they didn’t really need to sell to me, but I will say that now that I’ve gotten a small taste I am much more motivated to go for a real visit, and soon. It’s a marketing campaign that works.
I had signed up for the evening tour, which included a drive through the city center to see various mosques, Constantine’s Wall, and views across the Bosphorus and Galatea Tower from afar. I knew that Türkiye would look more “westernized” than other Middle-Eastern countries, and that was indeed the case. People dressed in everything from full-body coverings to crop tops and shorts, while billboards advertising new smartphones stood next to towering minarets. An exciting mix of east and west. A lot of what we saw was from the bus, which I suppose given that we were short on time made sense, but I wish that had been explicit on the TourIstanbul website.
Our first stop was the Grand Bazaar. It’s typical for tours to include a visit to a shopping area, and one of the other TourIstanbul options was even labeled a “shopping excursion.” Though I didn’t specifically choose a shopping tour, I didn’t mind exploring one of Istanbul’s largest covered markets. Our guide warned us of its vastness, but I was still unprepared for the endless maze of shops stretching out in all directions. I stepped inside one of the dozens of entrances and wandered deep to find myself in the oldest section, where I shopped for worry beads as a gift for my father. Owners beckoned anyone walking by, and would only turn on the AC when customers were in the shops. Shop owners called out to passersby and only turned on the air conditioning when customers entered. I felt a bit guilty browsing without buying, but maybe that’s the idea. When I did find something I liked, I haggled as much as I could, though I’m sure I paid more than necessary. Still, at least I saved a good bit by haggling at all.
We had only 45 minutes at the Grand Bazaar—not nearly enough time. I would have preferred an entrance with fewer souvenir shops, and given the twists and turns, I ended up fantastically lost while seeking the less-touristy areas. One shop owner told me he would take me back to the entrance number I came in, though of course we had to take a quick detour to his other shop that sold what looked suspiciously like knock-offs. I assured him I didn’t need any designer bags, thank you, and ducked back out, asking other merchants as I went where the exit was. Despite my detour, the experience was pleasant. I never felt overly pressured, and the vibrant colors and scents reminded me of Middle Eastern grocery stores I frequented with my mother while growing up. Spices, honey-drizzled desserts, evil-eye jewelry, and worry beads—it all felt like a re-connection with my Persian roots.
Unsurprisingly, one of my favorite parts of walking through the streets was the cats. Türkiye is famous for its stray cats, which the locals treat with care and affection. It was heartwarming to see well-fed, relaxed cats sunbathing, with food and water set out for them everywhere. I imagine the city has no problem with mice or rats—a win-win, in my opinion.
Our next stop was the Hippodrome, not far from the Grand Bazaar. Named for the chariot racetrack it once was, it was much longer than it was wide, reflecting its origins. At one end was an ancient Egyptian obelisk, the Obelisk of Theodosius. Originally from the 15th century BCE, it was removed from Alexandria and re-erected in Istanbul in the 4th century CE by Theodosius I. The British don’t have a monopoly on stealing other culture’s monuments, I guess. Right next to the obelisk is the Serpentine Column, another pillaged monument, this time from Delphi in Greece. It had been an ancient Greek sacrificial tripod, and unfortunately, only the base remains. (Later, I would be lucky enough to see where it once stood – see Ancient Ruins of Delphi). There is also the Walled Obelisk, the final of the trio of columns bunched at the southern end of the ancient racetrack. It was most likely built in the 4th or 5th century to mirror the Obelisk of Theodosius, and has undergone many repairs over its lifetime. Young Janissaries of the Ottoman Empire reportedly took pride in climbing it, which did little for the stonework’s longevity. Breaking up the column trio is the German Fountain, a gift from Germany to commemorate Emperor Wilhelm II’s visit in the late 1800s.
While the Hippodrome’s monuments were interesting, the true highlight of Istanbul lay nearby: the Hagia Sophia. The site has held religious significance for centuries even before the building was completed in the 6th century. It’s served as a Greek Orthodox church, Roman Catholic church, a Sunni Muslim mosque, and now, a museum. For now, I can only comment on the outside of it, since we did not have time to enter. Even if we had spent the whole tour there, it would not have been enough time so that was understandable. Still, it will be worth returning to Istanbul just to see the inside of such a historic site. Across the gardens is the Blue Mosque, another breathtaking building in its own right, but again, only something I could admire from the outside.
As I made my way back to the meeting point, ethereal voices began floating through the air—the call to prayer, echoing from minarets across the city. The sky darkened to a dusky pink and blue, and the mosques lit up from within, casting a dreamlike scene. People went about their business, tourists took photos, neighbors chatted, and children played on the lawns. It felt surreal, and I was truly glad to witness it. In Europe, there are church bells; in the U.S., we rarely even have that. Hearing the call to prayer was a unique, memorable moment.
Our final stop was a modest restaurant off the main square for dinner. We packed into a small entryway, climbed a staircase to a large dining area clearly intended for tour groups, and sat down for a meal. The menu included kebabs, a tomato and bean salad, rice, and Ayran—a fermented yogurt drink with yogurt, salt, and sometimes mint. Some compare it to Persian doogh, though (don’t tell my Persian family) I found Ayran milder and more palatable to Western tastes. The food was quite good, and for dessert, we had halva, a sweet sesame and honey paste. After some awkward conversation with fellow tour-goers, we were funneled back out into the night to get on the bus.
All in all, I’m glad I took the longer layover for a taste of Istanbul. Each time I am part of a large tour group, I am reminded why I dislike them so strongly – they’re tight on time, make me feel like I’m in a flock of sheep, and I’m never close enough to hear everything the tour guide says – but it would have been far more stressful to organize a short afternoon in the city while trying to make sure that I made my way back in time for my flight. And now, I am far more motivated to visit Türkiye on my own, having seen how accessible it is. Hopefully there will be more posts to come in the near future of my adventures in Türkiye.
Sans Peur 
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